Fourteen years ago, I embarked on a transformative journey to Komodo National Park in Indonesia. I arrived not as a tourist, but I went there to train as a dive master, eager to explore the underwater wonders of this remote and breathtaking region. Back then, Komodo was known mainly to dedicated divers and a few adventurous backpackers drawn by the allure of its famous dragons and stunning landscapes. The vibrant reefs, crystal-clear waters, and dramatic islands like Padar created an idyllic backdrop for an unforgettable chapter of my life.
The Komodo I Remember
When I first stepped foot in the small town of Labuan Bajo serving as the gateway to the park, it felt like stepping back in time. The town had a simple charm, with basic infrastructure and a laid-back atmosphere. Resorts were few and modest, catering to a niche group of divers who had heard whispers of Komodo’s world-class dive sites. These divers, like myself, sought to explore the underwater world that lay beneath the surface, drawn by the promise of pristine coral reefs and diverse marine life.
The waters of Komodo were a diver’s dream. Every dive revealed a kaleidoscope of colors—schools of vibrant fish darting among corals, gentle manta rays gliding gracefully, and the occasional surprise encounter with a curious turtle. On land, the towering cliffs and rolling hills of Padar Island painted a dramatic landscape, and the famous pink beach shimmered in the sunlight, its sands an unusual hue thanks to fragments of red coral mixed with white.
Komodo was on the map for its unique offerings. The tourists who made the trek were largely nature enthusiasts, keen on experiencing the raw beauty of the islands and the thrill of spotting the mighty Komodo dragon. Life was simple, nature was bountiful, and the pressures of modern tourism seemed a world away.
video taken by: @kerstins.fkitlist
The Turning Tide: Pollution in Komodo Today
So what's happening to today's Komodo National Park? Fast forward to today, and the Komodo National Park I recently revisited felt different. The remote paradise I once knew is now grappling with a growing pollution crisis. The surge in popularity, driven by social media and international acclaim, has brought an influx of tourists, and with them, new challenges.
Plastic Pollution
One of the most heartbreaking changes is the increase in plastic pollution. The once-pristine beaches, including the iconic pink beach, are marred by litter, much of it single-use plastic brought in by the growing number of visitors. In the water, I’ve seen plastic bags floating alongside the marine life that once thrived undisturbed.
Plastic pollution poses a severe threat to marine ecosystems. Turtles, mistaking plastic bags for jellyfish, ingest them, leading to fatal blockages. Fish and seabirds are often found entangled in discarded fishing lines or trapped in bottles and other debris. The microplastics that break down from larger pieces are even more insidious, entering the food chain and affecting marine creatures at every level.
video taken by: @kerstins.fkitlist
Fish Bombing: A Persistent Threat
One of the most destructive practices still plaguing Komodo is fish bombing, or blast fishing. This illegal and highly damaging method involves using explosives to stun or kill fish, making them easy to collect. While this practice provides a quick and large catch, it comes at a devastating cost to the marine environment.
The explosions not only kill fish indiscriminately but also destroy coral reefs, the very foundation of the ecosystem. These reefs, which took thousands of years to form, are reduced to rubble in seconds, leaving behind underwater wastelands where vibrant marine life once thrived.
Despite efforts to curb this practice, fish bombing continues to be a significant threat in some areas of the park, driven by short-term economic gains at the expense of long-term sustainability.
Overtourism
The rapid growth in tourism has led to overcrowding and affecting the livelihood of the local people, known as the Ata Modo, who have been residents in the island for hundreds of years. However, with the expansion of tourism, what used to be their fishing grounds where they source for their food have turned into marina conservation zones and tourism spots for diving and snorkelling. As a result, locals have to pivot with these changes and start doing small businesses by selling souvenirs or local food to those who visit. While tourism provides much-needed economic benefits for the government, it is the local communities that we should be putting more considerations to.
The Komodo National Park was part of the “New 10 Bali” plan, which was first introduced in 2019 in the World Tourism Organisation meeting in Guangzhou, China. While the Indonesia government initial goal is to elevate tourism effort, the truth is that increasing number of tourists is bringing stress to the wildlife and local resources. Years ago, there were only a handful of boats and dive operators, now dozens of boats crowd the harbors and popular dive sites. The infrastructure, which was basic even during my first visit, struggles to keep up with the demand. The increased boat traffic not only disturbs the peace of the underwater world but also brings with it the risk of oil spills and anchor damage to coral reefs.
The influx of visitors has also led to more resorts and commercial establishments springing up, further taxing the delicate ecosystem. While tourism provides much-needed economic benefits for local communities, the environmental cost has been high. It is now such a concerning issue that 5 years after introducing the “New 10 Bali” plan, the Indonesia government has recently consider closing the park temporarily in mid-2025 to help ease strain.
As someone who has witnessed both the beauty and the decline of Komodo, I remain hopeful that with increased awareness and pressure, the necessary changes will come. Komodo’s future depends on the commitment of not just the local government and communities but also the effort by the tourists to protect and preserve its fragile ecosystems for generations to come.
Written by Ivan Quah
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